Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Toss the cauliflower in a large, shallow roasting tin with the cumin seeds, turmeric, some seasoning and half the oil until the cauliflower is coated and bright yellow. Roast for 15 mins, tossing a few times, until starting to char.

Meanwhile, blend together the peeled garlic and the ginger with half of the chopped red chilli, curry powder and some seasoning. Stir half of the paste, along with the chickpeas, with most of the remaining oil through the cauliflower. Roast for 20 mins more, stirring once or twice.

While the cauliflower and chickpeas are roasting, mix the softened butter with the rest of the spice paste you just made in the blender. Spread half of the spiced butter all over the defrosted fish. When the cauliflower and chickpeas are ready, remove the pan from the oven and make four gaps in the mixture. Nestle the fish in the gaps, and dot the remaining spiced butter over the veg. Roast for 10-15 mins more.

Heat the remaining oil in a large pan and add the spinach. Cook with a splash of water, salt and pepper for 1 minute. Add a squeeze of lemon Serve the traybake and the spinach in the middle of the table. Squeeze over the remaining lemon juice and scatter on the chopped chilli and coriander. Allow everyone to help themselves.