To make the tomato sauce, heat half the oil in a flameproof oven dish or ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat. Stir in half of the garlic and let it sizzle for 2 mins until fragrant, then mix in the oregano, sugar, basil and chopped tomatoes. Rinse out the cans with a splash of water each, then pour into the pan. Bring to a simmer, then leave to bubble away for 15-20 mins until thickened and reduced. Season to taste.

Meanwhile, for the meatballs, mix the breadcrumbs and milk together in a large bowl, and set aside for 5 mins to absorb. Mix in the beef mince, onion, remaining garlic, egg, mixed herbs a little salt and some pepper. Shape into 20 balls, around the size of golf balls. (Quantities to serve 4)

Heat the remaining oil in a second frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the meatballs and brown all over. Once browned, remove to a plate (they don’t need to be cooked through at this point).

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Tip half the tomato sauce into a baking dish, then add the garlic bread in layers with the meatballs. Drizzle over the remaining sauce with a spoon and dot over the mozzarella pieces. Drizzle over a little more olive oil and season with pepper. Bake for 20-25 mins until golden and bubbling. Scatter over some whole basil leaves, if you like, and serve with a big, green, sharply dressed salad.