Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat and cook the onion for 8-10 mins until softened. Stir in the garlic and cook for another 1-2 mins until softened but not coloured, then add the pearl barley and stock.

Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 40-45 mins, stirring often and topping up with water if needed, until the barley is tender and all the stock has been absorbed.

Put most of the watercress in a food processor along with the mascarpone, lemon juice, mustard, parmesan and a splash of water. Blitz until the mixture is the consistency of smooth pesto.

Melt the butter in a frying pan over a low-medium heat and toast the hazelnuts for 5-10 mins until the nuts are golden and the butter is a nutty brown colour.

Add the watercress pesto to the risotto, season well, then add another drop of lemon juice, if needed. Cook for another few minutes until the consistency loosens – it should resemble rice pudding. (Add another splash of water to loosen, if needed.) Ladle into shallow bowls and top with the toasted hazelnuts, brown butter, chunks of goat’s cheese, the lemon zest and the remaining watercress leaves.