Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole dish over a medium-high heat and brown the chicken on all sides until golden all over (you may have to do this in batches). Remove to a plate and set aside.

Fry the lardons in the dish for a few minutes, then add the onions and leeks. Cook over a medium heat for 8-10 mins until the vegetables have softened. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute, then add the flour. Season and cook for 2 mins more.

Slowly stir in the wine and cook until it has bubbled away, then stir in the stock. Return the chicken to the dish along with the bay leaves and cover with a lid. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 45 mins-1 hr, or until the chicken is tender. Once completely cool, the stew will keep frozen for up to three months. Defrost in the fridge overnight, then reheat in a pan before continuing.

Put the pesto, most of the basil, the watercress and a ladleful of hot liquid from the dish in a food processor or blender. Blitz to a loose green paste, pour into the stew and add the peas. Remove from the heat.

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. To make the dumplings, rub the butter into the flour until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Mix in half the grated cheese and some seasoning, then add 110ml water, mixing it in using a cutlery knife to form a light, sticky dough. Break off walnut-sized lumps of the dough and shape into small balls.

Put the dumplings on top of the stew, then scatter over the remaining cheese. Transfer the dish to the oven. Bake for 25 mins until the dumplings are golden brown and cooked through. Scatter over the remaining basil to serve.