In the traditional version of this Venetian classic, fresh peas are used. If you grow your own, or live next to someone kind enough to share theirs, they are preferable. However, with frozen peas being preserved so quickly, you get a much better flavour than if you use fresh peas that have been hanging around for ages. Risi e bisi means rice and peas in the Venetian dialect and the dish was often used to herald the start of spring when served at the feast of Saint Marco on 25th April. The great thing about frozen peas is that you don’t have to wait for the start of spring; you can enjoy this dish all year round.
Based on 4 servings, adjust as needed.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan or deep frying pan (skillet) over a gentle heat. Add the diced onion and fry for 8–10 minutes or until soft but not golden.
Stir in the pancetta and turn up the heat a little to medium-low. Fry the pancetta until it has started to release its fat and become a little golden round the edges.
Tip in the risotto rice and stir to coat the grains in the oil. Turn up the heat to medium, then fry for a minute or so until the rice starts to go a little translucent around the edges.
Pour in the wine, if using, and simmer for a few minutes until almost all absorbed. Follow with a ladleful of the stock and simmer, stirring continuously, until absorbed. Continue using up the stock until you have a thick but soupy consistency and the rice is almost tender. (You may not need to use all the stock, but if you haven’t added the wine you may need to use a little more.) Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Tip in the frozen peas, stir to mix them with the rice and cook for 2–3 minutes or until warmed through. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmesan until melted. Serve with a little more grated (shredded) Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper on top.