by Jay Rayner
Inspired by the rabbit in a mustard sauce served by Henry Harris at Racine. I made up this version years ago and use it with chicken thighs, not least because rabbit isn’t always that easy to get hold of. If you do decide to go with rabbit, it has to be farmed. Wild is far too tough for grilling and is only really good for braising and terrines. The original dish includes rashers of crisped smoked bacon perched on the top. In mine the bacon is part of the sauce. The key to it is to roast the chicken thighs, until the skin is really crisp. Read the full intro in Jay's new book, Nights Out at Home, linked below.
Based on 4 servings, adjust as needed.
Heat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7. You’re going to roast these chicken thighs hot and fast.
Put the sliced onion across the bottom of an oven pan (which can later be used on the hob to be deglazed). Place the chicken thighs on top, skin side up. Chuck the lardons over and around them. Dribble on a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, season liberally with salt and pepper and add the butter. Throw in the cloves of garlic. They aren’t important to the recipe. I just can’t resist the opportunity to roast garlic with chicken thighs. They go soft and mellow and squidgy and can be eaten whole.
Roast the chicken thighs in the oven for around 45 minutes, and certainly until the skin is crisp. Baste them every 15 minutes or so. About halfway through the cooking give them 10 minutes skin side down so the backs also crisp up. Then turn back skin side up for another 10 minutes so the skin is really crisp.
While the chicken is roasting, warm a serving dish which is big enough and has high enough sides to restrain the sauce.
When the thighs are done, take them out of the pan, shaking of any caramelized rings of onion or lardons. Put the chicken in the serving dish to rest. It will not get cold and will benefit hugely from the 15 minutes or so rest it will take to make the sauce. If serving with bread pop this into the hot oven now and cook according to the packet instructions.
The pan will have lots of fabulous juices in it. Put it on a medium heat, and pour in the stock from cube, scraping up everything from the bottom of the pan. Let it bubble away and reduce a little for 5 minutes.
Pour in the double cream and whisk to incorporate into the stock. Let it simmer and thicken further (but don’t let it boil).
Whisk in the Dijon mustard. Taste. (Always taste.) If you think it can take more, add a teaspoon at a time. Dijon mustard is a very good emulsifier and it will bring the whole thing together.
Once it has thickened enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon, pour everything in the tray over the chicken thighs.
Serve with rice, or crusty bread and a sharp green salad, dressed with a dash of red wine vinegar, salt and a little olive oil. Pretend you’re a rustic French farmer.